My Way Italy Day 5-6: Exploring the Five Villages of the Cinque Terre
My Way Italy Day 5: Arrive in Cinque Terre
After saying goodbye to the still, glassy waters of Lake Como, we traded alpine calm for the wild, rugged beauty of Cinque Terre — a place that feels less like a destination and more like a dream pulled from a postcard. This stretch of Italy’s coastline, now a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is a masterpiece of nature and human persistence. Colorful cliffside houses cling to rocky slopes with the kind of stubborn defiance you can’t help but admire. They rise straight out of the sea, stacked like Lego pieces placed by a kid with bold taste in color. And the views? They’re the kind that stop you in your tracks — wide-open panoramas of the Ligurian Sea that remind you why people romanticize this part of Italy.
Our arrival brought us to Monterosso al Mare, a seaside town that felt like the lovechild of a fishing village and a sun-drenched resort. The weather had that perfect kind of warmth you only get in early October — technically fall, but the sun still thinks it’s summer. Kids splashed in the turquoise water of the Ligurian Sea, their laughter mixing with the sound of gentle waves. Locals and tourists alike reclined under rows of beach umbrellas, sipping Aperol spritzes or nibbling on fresh focaccia. The boardwalk buzzed with life. Gelato in hand, sandals slapping against the stone path, people wandered slowly, soaking in the glow of the sun that seemed to hang just a little longer than usual. As we walked to our hotel, I realized exactly why Cinque Terre is a summer escape for Romans and travelers alike. It’s not just the sun or the sea — it’s the way time seems to loosen its grip on you. Here, you’re not in a hurry. You just exist. And that, I think, is the point.
Overview
-
Hiking the Blue Trail: The Blue Trail is Cinque Terre’s iconic coastal hiking path, linking the five villages and showcasing spectacular sea views, terraced vineyards, and colorful cliffside homes. A permit is required, and some sections may be closed for maintenance.
The five villages of the Cinque Terre: A scenic stretch of the Italian Riviera made up of five colorful, cliffside villages, each offering its own unique charm. A UNESCO World Heritage site, it’s renowned for its terraced vineyards, hiking trails, and breathtaking coastal views.
-
Ristorante La Torre: This was the best restaurant that we went to during our trip. It was so good, we went there two nights in a row. It has stunning views overlooking the Ligurian Sea. After a full day exploring the Cinque Terre, this was paradise.
A Cantina da Mananan: After a busy morning hiking from Manarola to Corniglia, a piece of pizza here was fantastic.
-
The best way to explore the Cinque Terre is by taking the train between the five different villages. Each one has it’s own distinctive characteristics that make it unique so be sure to spend some time exploring each one.
The other main way to get around is hiking on the Blue Trail between villages. But be warned, some sections of the trail are harder than others.
“The Cinque Terre is five little towns like this, beautifully isolated in the most seductive stretch of the Italian Riveria. For me, the best bits of Italy are traffic-free. In this mix of Italian culture and nature, there’s not a Fiat in sight.”
On the Trail to Monterosso
After a quick bag drop at the hotel, we laced up our shoes and set off for Vernazza, one of the five iconic villages of Cinque Terre. The plan? Hike the 4.5 km coastal trail that connects the towns. It sounds simple enough — a breezy seaside stroll, right? Not quite. The first stretch of trail was packed with people, half of them headed back to Monterosso, the other half racing to reach Vernazza before sunset. It felt more like rush hour on a hiking trail.
But as the trail climbed higher, something wonderful happened — the crowd thinned out. One by one, people peeled off, worn down by the steep switchbacks and never-ending stairs. This wasn’t a walk. This was the Stairmaster from hell. At one point, we faced a staircase that stretched on for what felt like a hundred yards of pure leg-burning torture. Each step was a reminder that pasta and gelato come with consequences. But just when it felt like the stairs would never end, the reward hit us square in the face — a jaw-dropping view of the Ligurian Sea stretching endlessly below. The water shimmered in that impossible blue-green hue that only exists in places like this, where nature refuses to be humble.
Then came the moment every hiker dreams of. As we crested the final ridge, there it was — Vernazza in all its sunlit glory. It didn’t feel real. It looked like a scene from a Disney movie or a children’s storybook where the artist decided to color outside the lines. The houses were painted in hues so bold — mustard yellow, coral pink, seafoam green — it felt like a toddler had gone wild with a box of crayons. And yet, somehow, it worked. It wasn’t some sanitized, color-coordinated HOA-approved neighborhood — it was authentic, wild, and alive. Seeing it from above framed by the sun's warm glow felt like walking into a living postcard. Legs aching, heart full, I thought, “Yeah, this was worth every single step.”
Once we arrived in Vernazza, we decided to stay put instead of pushing on to Corniglia. The town had that pull — the kind that makes you slow down, look around, and think, “Yeah, I could stay here for a while.” The main street leading to the sea was buzzing with life, mostly travelers fresh off cruise ships, racing to squeeze every last drop of charm from this little fishing village before the captain called them back. But even with the crowds, it didn’t feel hectic. In fact, it felt almost… staged. The whole place looked too perfect, like we’d wandered onto a Hollywood backlot designed to look like "idyllic Italian coastal town #4.” The colors were too vibrant, the laundry hanging from balconies felt too perfectly draped, and the restaurant tables were set with such care it was almost suspicious. Yet, it wasn’t fake. This was real life — just a version of life that’s figured out how to do it right.
After weaving through the alleyways and dodging tourists clutching gelato, we found ourselves down by the harbor, where the sea meets the shore like an old friend. We sat at a small cafe, ordered a couple of cold beers, and settled into one of those rare travel moments where time stops being measured in hours and starts being measured in sips. The church bells chimed for Saturday mass, their echoes bouncing off the cliffs, mixing with the sound of waves hitting the rocks. It felt like something pulled from a novel — the kind of scene you try to remember every detail of because you know you’ll be chasing that feeling for the rest of your life. No agenda, no to-do list. Just a beer, a view, and the soft hum of a town that knows how to live.
Dinner on the Ligurian Sea
But the real showstopper of the day? Dinner at Ristorante La Torre. Perched high in the hills above Vernazza, it’s the kind of spot that would make a real estate agent’s eyes bulge. The view was obscene — the kind you see on postcards and wonder if it’s been photoshopped. The sun dipped lower as we sat down, turning the sea into a sheet of molten gold. We ordered wine, shared incredible food, and laughed over stories from the hike earlier in the day. It’s not every meal that leaves a mark, but this one did. The food was unforgettable, sure — but it was the setting, the sunset, and the shared moment that etched it into memory. If travel is about collecting moments that stick with you, this was one of them. It wasn’t on the itinerary, but I’m convinced those are always the best experiences. Sometimes, you don’t find them — they find you.
Taylor Tip
For a breathtaking dinner, be sure to check out Ristorante La Torre in Vernazza. But be sure to call ahead to make reservations since it is popular with foodies hungry for an incredible meal and influencers looking for their next selfie for social media.
My Way Italy Day 6: Hiking in Cinque Terre
Hiking to Manarola
The next day, we set out to explore more of Cinque Terre, beginning in Riomaggiore. Our first stop was the legendary Via dell’Amore, or “Lovers’ Trail.” This isn’t just a walking path — it’s a love letter to the Italian coastline, winding its way along sheer cliffs with the kind of views that make you stop mid-step and question whether life gets better than this. Closed for over a decade after a landslide in 2012, the trail has recently reopened, its careful restoration ensuring that generations of romantics and wanderers can continue to bask in its glory.
From Riomaggiore, we made our way toward Manarola, traversing a trail that seemed less like a pathway and more like a dare to gravity. Carved into the cliffs, it felt almost surreal, as though it had no business existing in the real world. Every step offered a new view of the jagged coastline, where waves slammed against rocks with an intensity that felt both chaotic and calming. The sound of the sea, relentless and rhythmic, paired perfectly with the crisp coastal air. It was the kind of trail where you’re not just walking — you’re existing in the moment, feeling every sound, every step, every breeze as if the trail itself were whispering, “Remember this.”
Our hike along the Via dell’Amore ended in Manarola, a village so stunning it feels like it was designed for the cover of National Geographic. The first glimpse of its vivid, technicolor houses clinging to the cliffs instantly explained why travelers from every corner of the globe flock here. It’s a place that manages to feel timeless and alive all at once. As we wandered through the narrow streets toward the water, we passed a line of weathered fishing boats, their chipped paint telling quiet stories of a hard day’s work and a salty, sea-worn life.
But nothing could prepare me for the view at the boat launch. From here, Manarola revealed itself in full glory — homes stacked haphazardly on top of one another, like someone decided to build a neighborhood out of Legos and skipped the instructions. Even under a blanket of clouds, the village glowed, its colors and contours creating a scene every photographer dreams of. It’s the kind of place that insists you stop and take it all in. In Manarola, the world slows down, the sea hums a soft rhythm, and every glance offers a view worth savoring.
the Stairmaster Climb to Volastra
After soaking in the surreal beauty of Manarola, it was time to tackle the climb to Volastra before continuing on to Corniglia. I knew going in this hike was going to be brutal — over 1,000 feet of elevation gain in just a mile. But knowing it and doing it are two very different things. Within minutes, I realized this wasn’t going to be like the hike we’d taken the day before. This was a grind, the kind that makes your legs burn and your lungs feel like they’re fighting for air through a straw. About halfway up, we passed a small statue of the Virgin Mary, and I’ll admit it — I sent a quiet prayer her way. Whether it was for salvation or just a quick reprieve, I’ll leave that to her discretion.
As the path snaked higher, the pain began to fade into awe. We passed terraced vineyards etched into the steep hillside like nature’s own staircase. Each terrace told a story of centuries of hard work and determination, and I couldn’t help but think these views would leave winemakers in Napa and Sonoma green with envy. The vines stretched toward the horizon, their neat rows framing jaw-dropping views of the Ligurian Sea below. It was the kind of beauty that almost — almost — made you forget the climb.
Reaching the top of the climb felt like hitting the jackpot. The views from this elevation were nothing short of spectacular, stretching across the Cinque Terre coastline in a way that made you feel like you were in a helicopter sightseeing tour. Panoramas in every direction unfolded like a painting come to life — cliffs plunging into the Ligurian Sea, villages clinging to the hillsides, and vineyards rolling out in perfect symmetry. The ache in my legs and the burn in my lungs melted away as I stood there, utterly captivated. The path continued toward Corniglia, winding past terraced vineyards that only amplified the scenery. At that moment, there was no doubt in my mind: this was worth every step.
What made this hike even more memorable was the global chorus of fellow travelers we encountered along the way. We passed hikers from Spain, Sweden, England, Croatia, Brazil, and countless other places. They could have gone anywhere, but the beauty of Cinque Terre called them here, and standing in that moment, it was easy to see why. There’s a unique kind of romance to this place, a magnetic pull that draws people in and keeps them present. For once, there was no compulsion to check emails or scroll Instagram. To do so would have been sacrilege — a distraction from the sheer, unfiltered magic of the view unfolding before me. Here, you don’t just see the world; you feel it.
The warm embrace of Cinque Terre’s sunshine was a welcome change after days of rain-soaked adventures, and it didn’t take long to see why this slice of the Italian Riviera draws travelers from around the globe. Exploring the five villages felt like unraveling a beautiful contradiction — perched precariously on rugged cliffs, yet exuding a calm, effortless charm. Each village seemed to tell its own story: one bustling with fishermen, another alive with pastel facades glowing in the sun. The trails connecting them offered more than just stunning views; they were a chance to feel the pulse of this iconic coastline and understand how geography shaped its soul, giving each village its own unique character.
As we left Cinque Terre, I couldn’t help but reflect on its magic. There are countless breathtaking coastlines in the world, but none quite like this. The rhythm here is intoxicating: one moment you’re scaling a trail with panoramic views that steal your breath, the next you’re in a café, sipping espresso, recharging for whatever hidden gem lies around the next bend. This isn’t a place to stand still; it urges you to keep moving, to explore every corner, and savor every discovery. I left with gratitude and a promise to return — not because I missed something, but because Cinque Terre’s charm leaves you wanting more.
Taylor Tip
If you plan on hiking in Cinque Terre, wear proper footwear, such as hiking boots. There is nothing like a rolled ankle to ruin the rest of the trip.